It is 8 o’cIock in the morning, I was waking up an hour ago because it started to rain. After I had packed everything I cycled towards the next town and so you find me sitting in a nice cafe and I am warming and waking up a bit before I continue my day with one of my last higher collars of the Pyrenees and hopefully reach the border to Spain in the afternoon.
Since my last post a lot has happened and I am happy to share some key moments with you. Most important to know is that this part has been a key moment in my inner world – the outer as well as inner challenges were fitting together as perfect as it could possibly be. I am glad and sure all these challenges were helping me to grow, but the days have been strong lessons for me.
the Pyrenees
Do you remember the day I wrote my last story? I was sitting in a cafe not cycling as it was so hot in the afternoon that I decided to have a siesta. I was still some kilometers away from Lourdes which marks the beginning of me entering the Pyrenees mountains.
I decided to cycle into the night that day, maybe even into Lourdes so I could enjoy the grotte in the night without all the tourism that is happening there, it was a hint I got from a very nice Italian that I met in Taizé. I had a smooth day of riding and after it got dark, also the temperatures finally went below 30°C.
It was a tough ride and so I called it a day after 100 km, which left me with a bit over 10 km to reach Lourdes. I had observed some lightning behind the mountains that was pretty impressive, but didn’t really pay attention to it as it was very far away and these lightnings appear often in the hot summertimes.
I set up my camp and by the time I got curious about the weather and the happening behind the mountains – the flashes were so frequent, it was not a normal thunder. So I opened my weather app and saw this huge accumulation of clouds, rain and thunder on the other side of the Pyrenees, a heavy storm that raged all the way from the north to the south. I got a bit scared to be honest, nervously checked my location but was left calm as the weather was not expected to come over the mountains until midday the day after.
I wanted to go asleep when I then started to directly see the lightnings and the wind getting ever more strong. I was camping on a field, under a tree, next to some cows and my gut feeling started to be a bit worried, as it was getting closer and closer. It was not 5 minutes later that the wind had increased hugely, the lightnings were ever more strong and slowly there were raindrops in the air. I was starting to get pretty stressed, I was nearly completely encircled by lightning and the wind was nearly blowing away my tent.
So I centred my nerves and calmly decided to pack everything as fast as possible and find shelter in the closest town I would find. That was very challenging as the windgusts were so strong and the lightnings were so frequent, I didn’t need a torch to see what I was doing. Finally on my bike I raced towards the village, trying to spot a place. Luckily the administration building had an awning where I was protected from the rain. The lightnings were everywhere, the thunder rolling and I was sitting there swearing at the sky. Only after a long long time was I finally able to fall into a very shallow sleep and could get the rest I needed for the next day of cycling.
I was really awestruck by this force, until now I approached all weather and challenges like a buffalo, keeping my head down and carrying on straight through. But that night I was flinching, yet stayed definitely outside any comfort zone.
The morning after I continued to Lourdes and was happy the night was over.
Lourdes and more challenges
Finally arriving in Lourdes I was curious about the grottes and the energy of the place. I didn’t know what to expect. I was passing through a lot of touristic avenues and luckily could park my bike aside the security hut of the entrance to the area of the grotte. I was very impressed by the cathedral they built there, it was massive and you could see that thousands of people could be hosted there. There were several masses happening, in front of the church, inside, up down, everywhere!
When I came towards the grotte I found hundreds of people there and I was a bit disappointed how this place was used. I didn’t spend much time there, also the spring water they offered was an attraction that I didn’t want to experience. After a short inner calmer moment I centred myself at the river and decided this was not my place to be, even though I respect that place of power. I left to drink a coffee and decided to treat myself with a quiche Lorraine and a crêpes to treat myself.
All these challenges were finding a highly turbulent young man that is trying also to find a new orientation in his life. As I wrote in my last entry my inner processes were still very active. Not being sure how to navigate and lacking confidence I reached out to a good friend that helped me to get myself back together. After an hour of talking I decided to stay with my idea to take the route through the inner mountains of the Pyrenees and to not take the easier route staying at their footsteps.
master class
After my decision to continue through the inner mountains I was greeted with a lot of wind against me. The weather was still wild and I knew my way would not be easy. I was also feeling very vulnerable and as I was in the realization of my decision and implications I was flashed with a very strong inner picture that still gives me goosebumps as I am writing about it. I saw a huge male deer standing on a mountain on his rear legs, behind him thunder and lightning raging and above him an eagle flying through the storm.
I can’t describe that feeling but in that moment my entire self collapsed and I was crying and crying, cycling towards the peak of the collar. I knew I was supported by all these elements, all the powerful forces were with me, but not without me participating.
It was the toughest mountain I had ever climbed, sobbing, but continuing step by step. I was carrying all my heavy gear, all my inner sorrows, all my doubts and fears up that mountain against continues headwind and rain. I knew I would arrive late if I wanted to make it to the top.
It was getting dark already and the winds were once more freshening up when I finally got to the top.
As I arrived the sun was shining through a stripe between the mountains and the clouds directly into my eyes. I was flashed by a huge light of beauty and compassion that was filling me with the most beautiful feeling I ever had. The winds were blowing me off my bike and when I turned my head around I saw this huge full circle of a rainbow. I couldn’t believe what was happening, I was riding this mountains and on the top I felt I was meeting the highest force of life herself…
I was full off all kind of feelings at the same time, it was a huge energy that was flowing. It is hard to tell and also the pictures will not show the beauty that was happening, but I hope I can transmit a bit of it.
After a while sitting there in gratitude I had to continue my way and to find a safe spot to set up my camp for the night. So I descended and luckily found a taverna that was still open in this otherwise completely empty ski resort and had a delicious meal. I was happy to sit in a warm place and a nice old lady was serving me a delicious vegetarian meal and a beer.
Still puzzled, empty and full at the same time I built up my tent next to the church of the town and fell into a restless sleep.
lac le Valentin
The next morning I was greeted with the warmth of the sun and a beautiful day was awayting me. I had planned to climb upt the close by mountains and following the hint of the lady of the evening I climbed up to see the three mountain lakes of the valley. It was the best I could do, I left my camp at around 10 and was climbing up another 1.000 meter of altitude. It was soothing for my soul to be in that region.
Every corner I took opened up another beautiful sight as if I was reading a photo book and turning page by page.
And as most of you know me there is no mountain lake or creek that I would not jump in, no matter how cold it was. The people passing thought I was a bit crazy as it was not warm and windy, you can’t see that on the pictures.
To keep this short story long I also jumped under every waterfall I could find when I was walking down – generally I would say that is true for the whole journey. I just can’t help it but celebrate the beauty of fresh water.
col de Marie blanque
After a delicious dinner and a very uncomfortable night I left this powerful part of my journey and continued towards Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. I had to still ride some collars and was happy about the fact that I had cycled the highest one already.
Many people I meet here are very supportive, wishing me luck or express their admiration for my courageous adventure. It was a nice moment in this cafe when an old man from the region lifted my bike and was scratching his head, how the hack would I get over the collars with all that weight?
I met many road cyclists on my way as the collars I cycled were routes of the tour de France and the region was attracting a lot of cyclists that wanted to tackle the mountains.
The rain has stopped and the stories are getting long, so I will end this episode with gratitude to all my supporters and helpers who are having my back. Even though I am cycling alone I always feel you behind me and I hope this message finds a good place in your heart.
Have a great day and see you soon, next time hopefully from Spain.
Wish me luck and some tailwind, I am not yet out of the mountains and after these intense days I could need some plus some rest.
dusty road stories 